In a straight-haired follicle, keratin is evenly distributed on each strand (keeping it straight), but in the U- or C-shaped follicles that produce curls and kinks, keratin accumulates more on one side of the hair strand than the other, further enhancing that spiral shape. Keratin is distributed via the follicle and provides structure to human hair. The angle and shape of follicles also contributes to another distinguishing characteristic of hair: how each strand is structured. Straight hair follicles tunnel vertically into the scalp while curly and wavy follicles angle into the skin, causing the hair to curve as it grows, eventually creating curls. In addition to follicle shape, the angle at which hair follicles tunnel into the scalp contribute to whether or not hair will curl, wave, or grow in straight. вЂњIf you have a U- or C-shaped follicle, you're going to have very curly hair,вЂќ she says, adding that follicles with a slight bend produce wavy hair and perfectly round follicles produce straight hair. ItвЂ™s the shape of the follicle each hair grows from that dictates how straight, curly, or coily an individual strand will be, explains Douglas on our episode. If you put a strand of curly hair under a microscope, it wonвЂ™t have any biological differences from a straight one.

So with help of cosmetic chemist Erica Douglas, our hosts Michelle Lee, editor in chief, and Jenny Bailly, executive beauty director, set out to explain what curls actually are, debunk some common myths, and a whole lot more.

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